Serge Lutens Écrin de Fumée and Cannibale

Final week, for some cause, I rewatched the Bourne movies, together with the bizarre form of associated one with Jeremy Renner moderately than Matt Damon (that one didn’t work, however I assume that typically occurs if you resolve to patch in a brand new however form of associated story with bizarre related flashbacks). They’re (bar the bizarre non-Damon one) actually stress-free. I stored questioning if I may 1) be taught all these languages and a pair of) discover ways to run throughout rooftops like that.


Onward to the opposite two samples I ordered from the Tiny Fragrances web site, that are each from Serge Lutens.

First off is the 2023 launch, Écrin de Fumée, which I smelled on a ribbon throughout my wondrous time out with Portia a couple of months in the past. We have been each very taken with it and I’d been that means to get a correct pattern to be thrown on pores and skin.

Écrin de Fumée interprets as ‘smokescreen’. The advertising guff goes like this: “Infused with the candy and sensual scent of tobacco, this can be a poetic ode to those that burn life at each ends. To these for whom extra is a lifestyle …” Yeah, okay.

Notes for this embrace cocoa, tobacco, rum, ‘smoke’ and woods. It begins out on me as boozy cocoa smoke, which may be very good. It then will get a bit spicy because it opens up – and the rum will get extra outstanding. The tobacco involves the fore within the drydown.

On paper it’s all this however barely bitter. So, a lot better on pores and skin. The spice is possibly cloves and I’m wondering if there’s any sandalwood in it.

EdF may be very good, very wearable. However I don’t know the place the advertising guff got here from as a result of it’s not edgy in any sense of the creativeness. It’s a really properly finished smoky-woody, with some good twists. However, it’s not terribly uncommon – simply actually nice to put on. Nonetheless, doesn’t make my coronary heart go pitter pat. So, doesn’t go on to the need checklist. Right here, a 50ml (export-type) bottle is £125 (100ml is £182), which is a cut price within the scheme of fragrance costs as of late.

Cannibale is a really completely different creature. I purchased this primarily based on the identify. And for as soon as I wasn’t in any respect upset having finished that. However, this, which was launched in 2015, is discontinued. That is what occurs if you purchase one thing on the fly with out researching it. Oh, properly. I’m nonetheless happy to have had an opportunity to pattern it.

In any case.

Cannibale is kind of intriguing. First, the advertising guff, which is, fairly frankly, ludicrous. Sigh. Whoever wrote the EdF stuff, whereas nonetheless providing silliness, did a lot better than this: “The cannibal is famished. How can we point out him with no reference to like …” WtAF??? If you realize the place this derived from please inform me as a result of if it’s not referencing one thing particular, I feel the copy author was on medication.

Apparently, this was a riff on floral vinegars from the 18th century. One assessment I learn acknowledged it was “a stunning sourish floral wooden”.

Not on me. Notes are laborious to seek out. Perhaps rose, carnation, vinegar, ambergris, amber, frankincense, styrax, birch tar, castoreum, myrrh, tonka, patchouli, plum, some tuberose-related mothballiness?

Having written that, on me, the opening is immortelle: straight up. Darkish, syrupy, barely bitter and barely candy. Not as refined as Dior Eau Noire however it’s purported to have one thing to do with a cannibal, in spite of everything.

The center growth sees floral incense on me – mild, resinous and the place did that immortelle factor go??? – after which issues get a bit sweeter because the perfume dries down. It winds up as a candy smoky incense – ie, one thing of a consolation scent ultimately.

Even when it have been nonetheless round, I don’t want this. The fake immortelle side on the opening is essentially the most attention-grabbing a part of the perfume.

So, there we’re. I’m actually happy with all three of my latest samples.  Anybody else finished EdF and Cannibale when it was launched?

Pics: Pexels and mine